About an hour beyond Banteay Srei, the road leads to Kbal Spean (or the Valley of a Thousand Lingas). Actually it leads to the trailhead for it -- Kbal Spean is another 45 minute hike up to where the carvings are.
"So where's the temple?" you might ask. This has no temple, but it has a carved riverbed that is related to the temples. The river bed is carved mainly with lingas (phallic stone monuments) which are worshipped as symbols of Shiva, the god of fertility. Water that flows over a linga is said to become sacred. So the lingas at Kbal Spean makes the water in this river sanctified. And since this river eventually flows through Angkor, it makes all the water in & around the temples holy.
The ancient Khmers carved the lingas and other bas reliefs here about the same time that Angkor Wat was built. But this site was only discovered in 1968.
I enjoyed the hike -- exploring a jungle river certainly has its charms. As usual, you wouldn't venture too far off-trail due to the land mines. And this is not an area heavily trafficed by tourists, so you can have a lot of Kbal Spean to yourself (and your tour group). I imagine that this is what the temples were like a decade or so ago. If you've made the effort to come all the way to Cambodia, I'd recommend spending another day in a bumpy bus to see this.
