If you're going to Tikal or to any of the Maya ruins in the north of Guatemala, you'll be staying in Flores. It is an almost circular island in the middle of lake Peten Itza, and small emough to circumambulate in 15 minutes.
The trick to Flores is that there's no trick. It is not a destination on its own -- folks are usually on their way to Tikal or elsewhere. Flores is like a bus station, albeit a very pretty one. And like a bus station, it has diversions for you to bide your time -- restaurants, boat rides, and pretty sunsets. But it's not a real Guatemalan town, really. The locals live across the lake in Santa Elena -- whis is as vibrant and cluttered as you would expect for a good-sized city. Flores remains a tourist place. Plenty of restaurants but no tortillería (tortilla making shops); many hotels few apartments.
It has a pleasant expat scene, plenty of beer, and you can't beat the sunsets. No sights to speak of and you'll be an island expert after an hour of exploring. So don't expect much. But while you await that next bus, grab a lakeside table and utter the words, "Uno Gallo cerveza mas, por favor."
