greg willis

The highlands of Guatemala are so mountainous, they make West Virginia look like Kansas. The roads seem like continuous switchbacks. And every valley goes down twice as far as you expect. We visited two places in the highlands -- Chichicastenango and Santiago Atitlan.

We were in Chichi for the market. The market is indeed huge, with streets blocks around the main plaza jammed with colorful stands full of stuff for sale, folks selling, and folks buying. We stayed the night before, but I don't think it was worth it. Chichi isn't that charming of a place to warrant staying there much longer than to buy things at the market. And although the market started around 8 am, I didn't see any particular advantage to being there before the buses arrived. My recommendation is to stay elsewhere, Pana maybe, and take the bus like everyone else.

Lake Atitlan looks just like the travel posters - clear blue water surrounded by volcanic peaks - undoubtedly pretty. And the tourist feel around Lake Atitlan reminded me of beach towns here in the US - very laid-back with large emphasis on the relaxing. So no, I did not really enjoy Lake Atitlan, for the same reasons I don't go to the beach. I place the blame solely on myself - I should have scheduled a hike or some activity out of the towns. We did stay in a kick-ass inn -- Posada de Santiago. Expat owned and a lot of evangelical Americans about, but the accommodations and food were terrific. And after two weeks of non-English-speaking service, the ease of transactions were worth the loss of local color.

I've got Chichi, Lake Atitlan, and the Maya city Iximche all together in the Highlands Photo Album.

We liked Antigua. Not sure whether is was the historical Spanish colonial ruins, the relaxed and laid back attitude, the intimate feel of this small city, or the simply perfect weather. But we liked it.

I think the main reason is because there's plenty of little stuff to do, but nothing you have to do. Check out a ruined convent, do a bit of shopping for the folks back home, grab some lunch, sit around the park and have some ice cream. It's a refreshing change to the zen-like activities available in Flores.

For visits longer than a couple of days, you'd probably need to venture on a day trip or two or get yourself a Spanish lesson.

We visited in Lent. We had heard about the Semana Santa (Holy Week) processions, but figured that we'd missed out. On a Sunday night as we were dining on a Sunday night, low and behold the procession passed right below our window table. Turns out that on Sundays in Lent they have them. Now I know you're thinking "Procession?" This is a traditional parade-like event, even with floats. But the floats are make of wood, weigh up to 2 tons, and are carried by folks on their shoulders. There's even a guy behind, pushing the generator for the lights. And there're dozens more people in robes, carrying banners or playing in the bands. But it is Lent, and it is not a parade, but a solemn procession. But it's a wonder to see. (Photos are in the middle of the album)

Antigua Photo Album

If you're going to Tikal or to any of the Maya ruins in the north of Guatemala, you'll be staying in Flores. It is an almost circular island in the middle of lake Peten Itza, and small emough to circumambulate in 15 minutes.

The trick to Flores is that there's no trick. It is not a destination on its own -- folks are usually on their way to Tikal or elsewhere. Flores is like a bus station, albeit a very pretty one. And like a bus station, it has diversions for you to bide your time -- restaurants, boat rides, and pretty sunsets. But it's not a real Guatemalan town, really. The locals live across the lake in Santa Elena -- whis is as vibrant and cluttered as you would expect for a good-sized city. Flores remains a tourist place. Plenty of restaurants but no tortillería (tortilla making shops); many hotels few apartments.

It has a pleasant expat scene, plenty of beer, and you can't beat the sunsets. No sights to speak of and you'll be an island expert after an hour of exploring. So don't expect much. But while you await that next bus, grab a lakeside table and utter the words, "Uno Gallo cerveza mas, por favor."

Flores Photo Album

While in Antugua, we took an Old Town Outfitters day trip to Pacaya Volcano. It was US$80 for the both of us, but that got us transport, a great guide, Wilber, and lunch at the top. The hike itself was trivial. But there is no shortage of men and boys at the trailhead trying to convince you otherwise, and that you really should ride one of their horses. Oh and they will follow you during the steep initial assent, just in case you change your mind. Although some in our group rode, they seemed to be new at hiking and had no real business being off of pavement.

Informed ahead of time, we did buy a stick. A dozen boys vying for your stick-commerce also greet you at the trailhead when your bus arrives. [Technically it is a rental, since they want it returned when you get back.] Get one. Why? So you have something to poke the lava with, silly.

And lava we did see. Conditions on the volcano vary from day to day, but we saw an actual moving lava flow. It was so hot, we couldn't roast the marshmallows that Wilber so dutifully brought along. The most unusual part: the sound. The clinking of the cooled lava as it dropped off or was pushed by the flow.

Check out the Payaca Volcano photo album.  And if you're in Guatemala, I recommend going. 

Finding out detailed information about the trek and about Maya archeology in this region is challenging. Here's some of the websites and documents I used to research our trip.

Mirador Basin Maya Information

So, what did we learn and what would be now do differently?

Speak Spanish. Without a doubt that would have added the most to our experience. Although by going through Henry Sanchez I thought I would have a guide that spoke a bit of English, that was not the case. Things in Guatemala are just not that organized - whoever's free is who you'll get. And it's guaranteed your guide will speak Spanish. So go with the flow and study up on the language.

23 Feb

After the other ruins that we have seen, La Florida isn't all that. There's a structure that seems to be mostly still standing, complete with an intact interior. There's a fairly good set of low structures, replete with their own set of looter's trenches. Oh, and a stela of some sort.

22 Feb

Easily the hardest day of trekking that we've ever done. Like in our lives. We hiked for eight hours straight with only a 10 minute break. My calves are killing me still, and we arrived over 2 hours ago. Technically, it wasn't as difficult as day 2 -- not much mud or sapling issues. But it was longer and had more of a trudge factor.

21 Feb

We get going this morning around 08:30. Today's 4 hour hike was unremarkable. The less-traveled trail did not have the sapling stumps nor the pervasive mud of the previous days. The other group headed back to Tintal today, as they had the 5 day tour. We have the 6 day tour and spend tonight in Nakbe.

20 Feb

Today is the one day the mules get to rest. Although we will explore Mirador more, we return and sleep another night in this camp. So the morning was unhurried, breakfast at 08:00 and out exploring by 09:00.

The big destination today is La Danta, a pyramid complex a little over a mile to the east of El Tigre. En route we visit a temple to the southeast of Structure 34. recently excavated with large plaster masks. We continue along, following the sacbe the connects the east and west parts of Mirador.