So you're visiting Capitol Reef during its high season -- Sep-Oct. The visitors center is crammed with bus tour people. The Hickman Bridge parking lot is overflowing. No empty picnic tables near the Fremont River. Oh, where to go for solitude? Cathedral Valley, my friend.

Thirty minutes after we left the visitors center, there was nary a soul to see. We had crossed the Fremont River and drove amid the ruddy bentonite hills. As you might expect, the vehicle traffic abates considerably when you have to ford a river. September is one of the peak times in this part of Utah -- summer's too hot and winter's too cold, so spring and fall is the prime time to visit. But for the next day we saw maybe five cars total, counting the three at the campground.

So what's good? I'm sure there's plenty that we didn't do/see. But here's a quick list:

• hiking to Jailhouse Rock (that's the photo there at the top)
• the vista at the South Desert Overlook
• great views and dark skies from the Cathedral Valley campground
• Temples of the Sun and Moon and Glass Mtn
• gypsum crystals in the hills near campers springs
• did I mention the solitude?

It's a gravel road, so you're not gonna be making any great time. You'd probably need a high-clearance vehicle for the river crossing and the road near Caineville Wash. You could drive it all in one day, but try to take the time for the camping. The pit toilet was very nice and the views are excellent.

If you want to follow along at home, GORP.com has a Cathedral Valley Scenic Drive Guide that I used, and it's pretty good.